Chettinad Thakkali Thokku
A spicy, jammy tomato pickle-style relish with Chettinad spices.
About this dish
Originating from the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu, this thokku is a concentrated tomato relish that bridges the gap between a curry and a pickle. It utilizes the region's love for fennel and kalpasi (stone flower) to create a complex aroma. It was historically prepared for travelers due to its long shelf life and intense flavor profile.
Ingredients
The Main Produce
- 1 kg Ripe Country Tomatoes (Nattu Thakkali), finely chopped
- 200g Shallots (Chinna Vengayam), peeled and sliced
- 10 cloves Garlic, crushed lightly
- 1/2 cup Gingelly oil
Spices and Seasoning
- 2 tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder (for color)
- 1 tbsp Hot chilli powder
- 1.5 tbsp Coriander powder
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
- Salt to taste
The Chettinad Tempering
- 1 tsp Mustard seeds
- 1 tsp Fennel seeds (Saunf)
- 2 pieces Cinnamon bark
- 3-4 Cloves
- 1 small piece Kalpasi (Stone flower)
- 3 sprigs Curry leaves
Method
- 1
Sautéing the Aromatics
Heat half the gingelly oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add mustard seeds, fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves, and kalpasi. When the mustard splutters and the fennel turns golden, add the curry leaves and crushed garlic. Sauté until the garlic is golden brown.
- 2
Browning the Shallots
Add the sliced shallots to the pan. Sauté on medium heat for 5-7 minutes until they are translucent and slightly caramelized. Using shallots instead of regular onions is crucial for the authentic Chettinad sweetness.
- 3
Softening the Tomatoes
Add the chopped tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Cover the pan and cook on medium-high heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes must break down completely until they are mushy.
- 4
Adding Dry Spices
Once the tomatoes are soft, add the turmeric, coriander powder, and both chilli powders. Stir well to incorporate. The mixture will look bright red and smell raw at this stage.
- 5
The Slow Reduce
Add the remaining gingelly oil. Lower the heat to medium-low and continue cooking without a lid. This process requires patience as you are essentially dehydrating the tomatoes while frying them in oil.
- 6
Monitoring Texture
Stir every 4-5 minutes to prevent the bottom from scorching. The thokku is ready when the water has completely evaporated and the mixture begins to leave the sides of the pan as a single jammy mass.
- 7
Oil Separation
Look for the 'oil release'—the oil you added should start seeping out from the edges and top of the tomato mass. This indicates that the tomatoes are perfectly preserved and cooked.
- 8
Final Seasoning
Taste and adjust the salt. If the tomatoes are very sour, you can add a small pinch of jaggery to balance the acidity, though this is optional in the Chettinad style.
- 9
Cooling and Storing
Turn off the heat and let the thokku cool completely in the pan. Transfer to a dry, sterilized glass jar. The oil layer on top acts as a natural preservative.
Notes & variations
- Use Country/Desi tomatoes for their high acid content which helps in preservation.
- Ensure no water is added at any stage; water will cause the thokku to spoil quickly.
- This stays fresh for 2 weeks at room temperature if handled with a dry spoon.
- You can add a teaspoon of roasted and powdered cumin at the end for extra depth.
Serve with
Curd rice, idli, dosa, or even spread over a slice of toasted bread.
Cook's note
To get a deep red color without excessive heat, always use a mix of Kashmiri and regular spicy chilli powders.