Madras Filter Coffee
Chicory-dark decoction pulled frothy between tumblers.
About this dish
Madras Filter Coffee is not just a drink; it is a cultural ritual. Using a traditional tin or stainless steel percolator, a thick 'decoction' is extracted from a blend of dark roasted coffee beans and chicory. The hallmark of a perfect cup is the 'degree' (purity) of the milk and the frothy 'head' created by vigorously pouring the coffee between a Dabarah and Tumbler.
Ingredients
For the Decoction
- 4 tbsp Filter Coffee Powder (80% Coffee, 20% Chicory blend)
- 1 cup Boiling water
For the Coffee
- 2 cups Full-fat cow's milk
- 2-3 tsp Sugar (or to taste)
Method
- 1
Preparing the Filter
Take the upper chamber of the South Indian coffee filter. Ensure the holes are clean. Place 4 tablespoons of coffee powder in the chamber and gently level it with the umbrella-shaped plunger, but do not press down too hard or the water won't drip.
- 2
Brewing the Decoction
Boil water to a rolling boil. Slowly pour it over the plunger into the upper chamber. Close the lid and let it sit undisturbed for 15-20 minutes. The gravity-fed drip will collect a thick, dark liquid (the decoction) in the lower chamber.
- 3
Preparing the Milk
Use only full-cream milk. Heat the milk in a heavy saucepan until it comes to a boil. Do not add water to the milk; the creaminess is essential to balance the bitterness of the chicory.
- 4
Mixing Ratios
Pour about 1/4 cup of the dark decoction into a stainless steel tumbler. Add sugar to the bottom. Pour the hot, bubbling milk from a height to dissolve the sugar and create the first layer of foam.
- 5
The 'Pulling' Technique
Pour the coffee back and forth between the tumbler and the wide-rimmed dabarah (saucer) 3-4 times. This cools the coffee slightly to drinking temperature and aerates it, creating a thick, velvety froth on top.
- 6
Final Serve
Serve immediately in the tumbler placed inside the dabarah. The froth should be stable and at least half an inch thick.
Notes & variations
- Chicory is essential; it adds thickness and a deep earthy note that pure coffee lacks.
- The first extract (first drip) is the strongest; if you add more water for a second drip, it will be weaker.
- Never re-boil the decoction, as it becomes extremely bitter and loses its aroma.
- Clean the filter holes frequently with a pin to ensure a steady drip.
Serve with
A hot set of idlis or a crisp vada.
Cook's note
For the best flavor, buy beans roasted with chicory and grind them to a 'medium-coarse' texture—too fine and the filter gets blocked.