Malabar Kadala Curry
Black chickpeas in a roasted coconut gravy, perfect for Puttu.
About this dish
Kadala Curry is the quintessential companion to Kerala's breakfast staple, Puttu. This Malabar version uses the 'Varutharacha' technique—where fresh coconut is roasted with spices until dark brown and then ground. This process creates a smoky, deeply savory gravy that elevates the humble black chickpea into a gourmet experience.
Ingredients
The Chickpeas
- 1 cup Black chickpeas (Kala Chana), soaked overnight
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
- 1 tsp Salt
- 3 cups Water
The Roasted Coconut Paste
- 1 cup Grated coconut
- 4 Shallots (sliced)
- 1 sprig Curry leaves
- 1 tbsp Coriander powder
- 1/2 tbsp Chili powder
- 1/2 tsp Fennel seeds
The Sauté & Tempering
- 2 tbsp Coconut oil
- 1 large Onion (finely chopped)
- 1 tsp Mustard seeds
- 2 Dried red chilies
- 1 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste
- 1/4 tsp Garam masala
Method
- 1
Pressure Cook the Chickpeas
Drain the soaked chickpeas and place them in a pressure cooker with 3 cups of water, turmeric, and salt. Cook for 6-8 whistles on medium heat until the chickpeas are tender but not mushy. Reserve the cooking water as it contains all the flavor.
- 2
Roast the Coconut
In a dry pan, roast the grated coconut, shallots, fennel seeds, and curry leaves over medium-low heat. Stir constantly for 10-12 minutes. The coconut must turn a uniform, deep chocolate brown without burning. This is the most critical step for the curry's flavor.
- 3
Spice the Coconut
Once the coconut is dark brown, turn off the heat and add coriander powder and chili powder. The residual heat will toast the spices. Let the mixture cool completely before grinding.
- 4
Grind the Masala
Transfer the roasted mixture to a blender. Grind into a very smooth, thick paste using minimal water. The paste should be dark, oily, and highly aromatic. If it is gritty, continue blending; a smooth paste ensures a silky gravy.
- 5
Sauté the Aromatics
Heat coconut oil in a heavy pot and splutter mustard seeds and dried red chilies. Add the chopped onions and ginger-garlic paste, sautéing until the onions are golden brown and the raw aroma of the garlic has vanished.
- 6
Combine and Simmer
Add the cooked chickpeas and their reserved water to the pot. Stir in the ground coconut paste and mix thoroughly. Bring the curry to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. The gravy will begin to thicken and turn a beautiful dark brown.
- 7
Season and Finish
Sprinkle garam masala and adjust salt to taste. Let the curry simmer for 5-7 minutes on low heat until the oil begins to separate and float on top. This signifies that the spices are well-cooked and integrated.
- 8
Final Tempering (Optional)
For an extra layer of flavor, you can do an additional tempering of fried shallots and curry leaves in coconut oil and pour it over the curry just before serving. Cover the pot for 2 minutes to seal in the fragrance.
Notes & variations
- If you forget to soak chickpeas, soak them in boiling water for 2 hours in a thermos flask.
- The darker you roast the coconut (without burning), the better the flavor and color of the curry.
- You can mash a handful of cooked chickpeas and add them back to the gravy for extra thickness.
- This curry tastes even better the next day after the flavors have fully matured.
Serve with
Essential with Puttu (steamed rice cakes) or Kadumanga (tender mango pickle).
Cook's note
Add a few pieces of boiled potato along with the chickpeas for a creamier texture in the gravy.