Kodava Ellu Pajji
A staple of the Coorg (Kodagu) highlands, Ellu Pajji is a rustic black sesame chutney that highlights the region's love for pungency and tartness.
About this dish
A staple of the Coorg (Kodagu) highlands, Ellu Pajji is a rustic black sesame chutney that highlights the region's love for pungency and tartness. It is distinctively dark, almost black, and relies on the smoky flavor of toasted sesame and the sharp tang of 'Kachampuli' (Garcinia cambogia vinegar). This chutney is traditionally served during breakfast or as a side for a meat-heavy Kodava feast.
Ingredients
The Core Paste
- 1/2 cup Black sesame seeds (Ellu), cleaned
- 1 cup Fresh coconut, grated
- 4-6 Green chillies, slit
- 1 inch Ginger, roughly chopped
- 3 cloves Garlic
Souring and Seasoning
- 1 tsp Kachampuli (Coorg Vinegar) OR 1 tbsp thick Tamarind pulp
- 1 tsp Salt, to taste
- 1/2 tsp Jaggery (optional, to balance heat)
- 50ml Water for grinding
The Tempering
- 1 tbsp Coconut oil
- 1 tsp Mustard seeds
- 2 Dried red chillies, broken
- 1 sprig Curry leaves
Method
- 1
Toast the Sesame
Heat a heavy iron skillet over medium-low heat. Add the black sesame seeds and dry roast them, stirring constantly, until they begin to pop and release a distinct nutty aroma (about 3-4 minutes). Do not over-roast or they will turn bitter.
- 2
Cool the Seeds
Immediately transfer the roasted seeds to a wide plate and spread them out to cool completely. Leaving them in a hot pan will continue the cooking process and lead to burnt flavors.
- 3
Sauté the Aromatics
In the same pan, add a few drops of oil and sauté the green chillies, ginger, and garlic for 2 minutes until the chillies are blistered and the raw smell of garlic disappears.
- 4
First Grind
Place the cooled sesame seeds in a blender or traditional stone mortar. Pulse a few times to break them down into a coarse powder before adding other ingredients.
- 5
Combine Ingredients
Add the grated coconut, sautéed green chillies, ginger, and garlic to the blender. Add the salt and just a splash of water to facilitate grinding.
- 6
Achieve Texture
Grind the mixture into a thick, slightly coarse paste. It should not be a smooth runny liquid; the texture of the sesame husk should be slightly perceptible on the tongue.
- 7
Acidify the Pajji
Add the Kachampuli (or tamarind pulp) and the optional jaggery. Pulse one last time to ensure the sourness is evenly distributed through the dark paste.
- 8
Prepare Tempering
Heat coconut oil in a small ladle. When the oil is hot, add mustard seeds; once they splutter, add the dried red chillies and curry leaves, letting them crisp up for 10 seconds.
- 9
Finish and Infuse
Pour the tempering over the chutney and mix gently. Let the chutney sit for 10 minutes before serving to allow the flavors of the kachampuli to settle into the coconut.
Notes & variations
- Kachampuli is very potent; start with a few drops and increase according to your sourness preference.
- Black sesame is traditional, but unhulled white sesame can be used in a pinch, though the flavor profile will be milder.
- This chutney should be thick (thogayal consistency), not watery like a dip.
- Store in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Serve with
Best served with Akki Otti (rice rotis) or Kadambuttu (steamed rice balls).
Cook's note
Roast sesame seeds on low heat only; high heat causes the oil in the seeds to smoke and turn rancid instantly.