Koliwada Fish Curry
A rustic, spicy coconut-based curry from the indigenous fishing communities.
About this dish
The Kolis are the original inhabitants of Mumbai's seven islands. Their cuisine is defined by the proximity to the sea and the use of 'Koli Masala'—a complex blend of up to 18 spices. This curry is rustic and thin, characterized by the tartness of Kokum and the freshness of stone-ground coconut paste, representing the true soul of the city's coast.
Ingredients
The Fish
- 500 grams Pomfret or Kingfish (Surmai), cut into steaks
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
- 1/2 tsp Salt
- 1 tbsp Lemon juice
The Coconut Paste
- 1 cup Freshly grated coconut
- 4 cloves Garlic
- 1/2 inch Ginger
- 1/2 cup Fresh coriander leaves
The Curry Base
- 3 tbsp Peanut oil
- 2 tbsp Koli Masala (or Malvani Masala)
- 1 large Onion, finely chopped
- 6-8 Dried Kokum petals (soaked in water)
- 2 Green chilies, slit
- 500 ml Warm water
Method
- 1
Marinate the fish
Clean the fish steaks and pat them dry. Rub with turmeric, salt, and lemon juice. Let it rest for 20 minutes; this firms up the flesh and removes any 'fishy' odor.
- 2
Grind the masala
In a blender, combine the grated coconut, ginger, garlic, and coriander. Grind into a very fine, smooth green-white paste using a few tablespoons of water. The finer the paste, the silkier the curry.
- 3
Sauté the aromatics
Heat oil in a wide, shallow clay pot (handi) or heavy-bottomed pan. Add the chopped onions and sauté over medium heat until they become translucent and soft, but not browned.
- 4
Bloom the Koli Masala
Add the Koli Masala to the onions. Sauté for 1 minute on low heat until the oil takes on a deep reddish-orange hue and the raw smell of spices disappears.
- 5
Add the coconut paste
Stir in the ground coconut paste. Cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent the coconut from curdling or sticking to the bottom. The mixture should start releasing tiny beads of oil.
- 6
Simmer the base
Add 500ml of warm water and the slit green chilies. Bring to a gentle boil. Avoid a hard boil at this stage to keep the coconut emulsion stable.
- 7
Poach the fish
Carefully slide the marinated fish pieces into the simmering gravy. Ensure they are submerged. Do not stir with a spoon; instead, gently swirl the pan to coat the fish.
- 8
Add the souring agent
Add the soaked kokum petals along with their soaking liquid. This provides the signature purple-red tint and the sharp tang that balances the rich coconut.
- 9
Final cook
Cover and simmer on low heat for 6-8 minutes. The fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork. Overcooking will make the fish tough and dry.
- 10
Resting
Turn off the heat and let the curry sit covered for at least 15 minutes. This 'resting' period allows the flavors to penetrate the fish and the oil to rise to the top.
Notes & variations
- If you cannot find Kokum, use a small amount of tamarind pulp, though the flavor profile will shift.
- Koli Masala is available in Mumbai markets; substitute with a 2:1 ratio of Garam Masala and hot Paprika if needed.
- Fresh coconut is non-negotiable; desiccated coconut will make the curry too oily and gritty.
- This curry tastes even better the next day as the fish absorbs the spices.
Serve with
Serve with Steamed Rice or 'Bhakri' (handmade rice flour flatbreads).
Cook's note
Never use a spoon to stir fish curry; always 'shake' the pot to avoid breaking the delicate pieces.