Koli Style Fried Surmai
Kingfish steaks coated in a fiery, unique Koli masala blend and semolina.
About this dish
Originating from the Koli fishing community, the indigenous inhabitants of Mumbai's seven islands, this dish features the prized Surmai (Kingfish). The hallmark is the 'Koli Masala,' a complex spice blend containing up to 18 ingredients, which provides a deep, smoky heat distinct from Malvani or Goan flavors. It is traditionally prepared as a Sunday lunch centerpiece or for festive celebrations at the various Koliwadas (fishing villages) across the city.
Ingredients
The Fish
- 500g Surmai (Kingfish) cut into 1/2 inch thick steaks
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
- 1 tbsp Lemon juice
- 1 tsp Salt
Koli Masala Paste
- 3 tbsp Koli Masala (or a mix of Bydagi and Reshampatti chili powder)
- 1 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste
- 1 tsp Cumin powder
- 2 tbsp Tamarind pulp (thick)
- 1 tbsp Rice flour for binding
For Coating and Frying
- 1/2 cup Fine Semolina (Rava)
- 2 tbsp Rice flour
- 4 tbsp Coconut oil or Rice bran oil
Method
- 1
Initial Marination
Wash the fish steaks and pat them completely dry with paper towels to ensure the spices stick. Apply the salt, turmeric, and lemon juice evenly over the surfaces and sides, then set aside for 10-15 minutes. This step draws out excess moisture and pre-seasons the flesh deeply.
- 2
Prepare Masala Paste
In a small bowl, combine the Koli masala, ginger-garlic paste, cumin powder, and tamarind pulp. Add the rice flour and just a few drops of water to form a thick, glue-like paste that isn't runny. Taste the paste; it should be pungently spicy and sour.
- 3
Secondary Coating
Apply a generous layer of the masala paste onto each fish steak, ensuring every crevice is covered. Let the fish rest in the refrigerator for another 15 minutes to allow the proteins to bind with the spices. Cold fish hits the hot pan better, maintaining a firm texture.
- 4
Prepare the Crust
Mix the semolina and rice flour on a flat plate with a pinch of salt. Press each marinated steak firmly into the mixture, flipping to ensure a thick, even crust on both sides. Shake off any loose grains to prevent them from burning in the oil.
- 5
Pan Frying
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed cast iron skillet or tawa over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Carefully place the steaks in the pan, leaving space between them to prevent steaming. Fry for 4-5 minutes without moving them until the underside develops a dark golden-brown, crispy crust.
- 6
The Flip and Finish
Carefully flip the fish using a flat spatula; the crust should be rigid and sandpaper-like in texture. Cook the second side for 3-4 minutes on medium heat until the fish feels firm to the touch but still juicy inside. Drain on a wire rack rather than paper towels to maintain maximum crispness.
Notes & variations
- If Koli masala is unavailable, substitute with 2 parts Kashmiri chili powder, 1 part coriander powder, and a pinch of ground cloves/cinnamon.
- Ensure the tamarind pulp is thick; watery pulp will make the coating slide off during frying.
- For a traditional touch, use a heavy iron tawa which retains heat better for that characteristic char.
- Store leftovers in the fridge for 1 day, but reheat in a dry pan to regain crispness.
Serve with
Serve hot with steamed rice, Amti (spiced dal), and a wedge of lime.
Cook's note
Always pat the fish bone-dry before the first marinade; moisture is the enemy of a crispy Koli fry.