मMasala AtlasBiryani
Delhi

Old Delhi Mutton Nihari

A slow-cooked velvety marrow stew synonymous with the lanes of Jama Masjid.

Prep30 minCook6 hrTotal6 hr 30 minServes6DietNon-vegLevelInvolvedSpice
Old Delhi Mutton Nihari from Delhi

About this dish

Nihari, derived from the Arabic word 'Nahar' (morning), was originally a breakfast stew for the Mughal royalty and later the working class of Old Delhi. This dish is characterized by a slow-cooked, velvety gravy thickened with dissolved flour and flavored with a complex 'Nihari Masala' containing over 20 spices. The meat is cooked until it literally falls off the bone, and the fat (tari) is served separately to maintain the dish's aesthetic.

Ingredients

The Meat and Aromatics

  • 1.5 kg Mutton shank (Nalli) and shoulder cuts, large pieces
  • 200g (1 cup) Ghee or Mustard Oil
  • 2 large Onions, finely sliced
  • 2 tbsp Ginger-Garlic paste
  • Salt to taste
  • 50g (1/2 cup) Whole wheat flour (Atta), toasted

Nihari Spice Blend

  • 2 tbsp Coriander seeds
  • 1 tbsp Fennel seeds
  • 1 tsp Cumin seeds
  • 2 sticks Cinnamon
  • 5 Green cardamoms
  • 2 Black cardamoms
  • 1 tsp Cloves
  • 1 tsp Black peppercorns
  • 1/2 piece Nutmeg
  • 1 gram Mace (Javitri)
  • 2 pieces Dry ginger (Sonth)
  • 2-3 Long peppers (Pipli) - Essential

For Garnishing

  • 2-inch piece Ginger, julienned
  • 4 Green chilies, slit
  • 1/2 cup Fresh coriander, chopped
  • 2 Lemons, quartered

Method

  1. 1

    Create the Nihari Masala

    Dry roast all spices listed under the 'Spice Blend' on a low flame for 3-4 minutes until aromatic. Cool completely and grind to a fine powder. This masala is potent, so use about 3-4 tablespoons for this quantity and store the rest.

  2. 2

    Sauté the Aromatics

    In a heavy-bottomed copper pot (degh) or pressure cooker, heat the ghee. Add the sliced onions and fry until they are a uniform light golden brown. Add the mutton pieces and ginger-garlic paste, searing the meat on high heat for 8-10 minutes until the juices are sealed and the meat changes color.

  3. 3

    Spice Infusion

    Add 4 tablespoons of the prepared Nihari Masala, salt, and a splash of water to prevent the spices from burning. Bhuno (sauté) the meat for another 10 minutes until the ghee begins to separate and the spices coat the mutton evenly.

  4. 4

    Slow Braise

    Add 1.5 liters of water. If using a heavy pot, cover with a tight lid (seal with dough for 'dum') and cook on the lowest possible heat for 5-6 hours. If using a pressure cooker, cook for 45-60 minutes until the meat is extremely tender.

  5. 5

    Prepare the Thickener

    Whisk the toasted wheat flour with 1 cup of the cooled gravy or water to make a smooth, lump-free slurry. This 'Aalam' is what gives Nihari its signature silky consistency.

  6. 6

    Final Consistency

    Gradually pour the flour slurry into the pot while stirring constantly. Simmer for another 15-20 minutes on low heat. The gravy will thicken and take on a glossy, velvety sheen.

  7. 7

    Separate the Tari

    In many Old Delhi shops, the excess red oil (tari) is skimmed off and stored separately, then drizzled back over individual portions before serving so the gravy doesn't look muddy.

  8. 8

    Resting

    Allow the Nihari to rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. This allows the collagen from the bones to fully integrate into the sauce, deepening the flavor profile significantly.

Notes & variations

  • Pipli (Long pepper) is non-negotiable for the authentic numbing heat of Dilli Nihari.
  • Using Nalli (bone marrow) is essential as the marrow melts into the gravy.
  • Leftover Nihari tastes even better the next day as the spices mature.
  • If the gravy is too thick, adjust with boiling water, never cold water.

Serve with

Serve piping hot with khamiri roti, ginger juliennes, and a heavy squeeze of lemon.

Cook's note

To get the perfect 'tari', add a teaspoon of Kashmiri chili powder to a little hot ghee and drizzle it over the finished dish.

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