Purani Dilli Mutton Istoo
A fragrant, light mutton curry using whole spices and lots of sliced onions.
About this dish
Originating from the royal kitchens of the Mughal era and perfected in the lanes of Jama Masjid (Dilli 6), this 'Istoo' is a 'khade masale' (whole spice) preparation. Unlike traditional curries that rely on onion-tomato purees, this dish uses a large volume of sliced onions and whole spices to create a translucent, aromatic gravy. It is a staple at Muslim weddings in Delhi and is celebrated for its delicate balance of sweetness from onions and heat from whole red chilies.
Ingredients
The Meat and Aromatics
- 750g Mutton (goat meat), bone-in pieces (shoulder or raan)
- 500g Red onions, thinly sliced (approx. 4 large onions)
- 2 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste
- 150g Curd (plain yogurt), whisked smooth
- 100ml Mustard oil or Ghee
Whole Spices (Khade Masale)
- 8-10 Whole dried red chilies (Sabut Lal Mirch), broken into halves
- 2-3 Bay leaves (Tej Patta)
- 1 inch Cinnamon stick (Dalchini)
- 5-6 Green cardamoms (Choti Elaichi)
- 2 Black cardamoms (Badi Elaichi)
- 1 tsp Black peppercorns (Kali Mirch)
- 6-8 Cloves (Laung)
- 1 tsp Coriander seeds, lightly crushed
Seasoning
- Salt to taste
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder (optional, for color)
- 1 inch Ginger, julienned for garnish
- 2 tbsp Fresh coriander, chopped
Method
- 1
Temper the Oil
Heat mustard oil in a heavy-bottomed pressure cooker or degh until it reaches smoking point, then cool slightly. Re-heat to medium and add all the whole spices—bay leaves, cardamoms, cinnamon, peppercorns, and cloves—allowing them to sizzle and release their oils for 30 seconds.
- 2
Soften the Onions
Add the sliced onions to the pot. Sauté on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until they turn translucent and soft, but do not let them turn dark brown; they should just begin to caramelize at the edges to maintain the stew's light color.
- 3
Sear the Mutton
Increase heat to high and add the mutton pieces. Bhuna (sear) the meat for 5-7 minutes until the juices are sealed and the meat changes color from pink to a light grey-brown, ensuring every piece is coated in the spiced oil.
- 4
Add Aromatics and Chilies
Stir in the ginger-garlic paste and the broken whole red chilies. Continue cooking for 3-4 minutes until the raw smell of garlic disappears and the red chilies impart their distinct smoky aroma to the fat.
- 5
Incorporate the Yogurt
Lower the flame and gradually whisk in the curd. Stir continuously to prevent curdling, cooking for 5 minutes until the oil (tari) begins to separate from the masala and the gravy looks grainy and rich.
- 6
Pressure Cook or Simmer
Add salt and 1/2 cup of water. If using a pressure cooker, cook for 3-4 whistles (about 15-20 mins) or if using a slow pot, cover and simmer for 45-50 minutes until the mutton is tender and falling off the bone.
- 7
Check the Consistency
Open the lid and check the gravy; it should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon with visible pools of oil. If it is too watery, simmer uncovered on high heat for 3-4 minutes to reduce the liquid.
- 8
Final Tempering and Garnish
Add the julienned ginger and crushed coriander seeds. Give it one final stir, cover, and let it rest for 5 minutes off the heat to allow the flavors to marry before serving.
Notes & variations
- Avoid using red chili powder; the color and heat must come exclusively from the whole red chilies and black peppercorns.
- The ratio of onion to mutton is roughly 2:3, which provides the characteristic sweetness.
- For best results, use mustard oil to provide a pungent backbone that balances the sweet onions.
- Store leftovers for up to 2 days; the flavors intensify significantly the next day.
Serve with
Serve hot with Khamiri Roti or hot Sheermal.
Cook's note
Do not brown the onions too much; the stew should be a rich gold, not a dark brown.