Mutton Ulli Sarakku
A rustic Malabar mutton curry loaded with small onions.
About this dish
Mutton Ulli Sarakku (or Curry) is a rustic, gravy-heavy dish popular in the Malabar and Central Kerala regions among the spice-loving communities. The word 'Ulli' refers to the small shallots used in massive quantities, which melt down to create a thick, sweet-and-spicy base. Unlike typical restaurant curries, this relies on slow-cooked mutton fat and a heavy hand of black pepper.
Ingredients
The Meat
- 750g Mutton (Goat meat), cut into medium pieces with bone
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric Powder
- 1 tsp Salt
The Ulli Base
- 300g Shallots (Small Onions), peeled and kept whole or halved
- 2 medium Tomatoes, chopped
- 2 tbsp Ginger-Garlic Paste
- 3-4 Green Chillies, slit
Spices and Oil
- 4 tbsp Coconut Oil
- 2 tbsp Kashmiri Chilli Powder
- 3 tbsp Coriander Powder
- 1 tsp Black Pepper Powder
- 1.5 tsp Kerala Garam Masala (Fennel-heavy)
- 2 sprigs Curry Leaves
Method
- 1
Pre-cook the Mutton
Clean the mutton and place it in a pressure cooker with turmeric, salt, and half a cup of water. Cook for 4-5 whistles until the meat is 80% done. The mutton should be tender but not falling off the bone yet; save the stock for the gravy.
- 2
Sauté the Shallots
In a heavy-bottomed pan or uruli, heat 3 tablespoons of coconut oil. Add the whole shallots and sauté on medium heat for 12-15 minutes. The key is to get them to a deep golden-brown, almost caramelized state, which provides the gravy's sweetness.
- 3
Add Ginger and Garlic
Add the ginger-garlic paste and green chillies to the onions. Fry for 3-4 minutes until the raw smell evaporates and the mixture starts to clump together. The aroma should be intensely savory.
- 4
Tomato Breakdown
Add the chopped tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Cook until the tomatoes turn into a soft pulp and the oil starts to separate from the sides of the onion-tomato mixture. This creates the 'Sarakku' or the thick juice base.
- 5
Spice Roasting
Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder. Sauté for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly to avoid burning. The color of the masala will deepen to a dark mahogany.
- 6
Integrate the Meat
Add the pre-cooked mutton pieces and the reserved stock into the pan. Increase the heat to medium and stir well to coat every piece of meat with the onion-spice base. Add more warm water if the gravy looks too thick.
- 7
Slow Simmering
Cover the pan and let it simmer for 15-20 minutes. This slow cooking allows the mutton fats to render out and mingle with the onion gravy. The shallots should almost dissolve into the sauce by the end of this stage.
- 8
The Peppery Finish
Add the black pepper powder and Kerala garam masala. The fennel in the garam masala is crucial for the Malabar flavor profile. Stir and cook for another 5 minutes uncovered to thicken the gravy to your liking.
- 9
Tadka Garnish
In a small pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of coconut oil and fry a few curry leaves until crisp. Pour this over the curry and close the lid to trap the aroma. Let the curry rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.
Notes & variations
- The more shallots you use, the better the gravy; do not substitute with large red onions.
- Using mutton with bones (especially marrow bones) is essential for the depth of flavor in the Sarakku.
- If the gravy is too spicy, add 2 tablespoons of thick coconut milk at the end to mellow it.
- This curry is best made in a cast-iron or clay pot for superior heat retention.
Serve with
Serve with Malabar Porotta, Neypathal (fried rice pancakes), or Ghee Rice.
Cook's note
Keep the shallots whole if they are small; they look beautiful in the finished dish and provide bursts of sweetness.