Shab Degh Kofta
An overnight-cooked winter delicacy of meatballs and turnips.

About this dish
Shab Degh is a legendary winter dish of Old Delhi, traditionally cooked overnight (Shab) in a heavy copper pot (Degh). It represents the Indo-Persian fusion of meatballs (koftas) and winter vegetables like turnips. The long, slow cooking process allows the turnips to absorb the fatty richness of the meat, turning them buttery and dark.
Ingredients
For the Koftas
- 500g Mutton mince (Keema), very fine
- 2 tbsp Roasted Chickpea flour (Besan)
- 1 tsp Garam Masala
- 1 tbsp Ginger-Garlic paste
- 1 tsp Salt
- 1/2 cup Fried onions, crushed
For the Curry
- 500g Turnips (Shalgam), peeled and quartered
- 4 tbsp Mustard oil
- 2 medium Onions, ground to paste
- 1 cup Yogurt, beaten
- 2 tsp Kashmiri Red Chili powder
- 1 tsp Turmeric powder
- 2 tsp Coriander powder
- 4 Green cardamoms
Method
- 1
Prepare the meat mince
Pulse the mutton mince in a processor until it reaches a paste-like consistency. Mix in the roasted besan, spices, and crushed fried onions, kneading it like dough for 5 minutes.
- 2
Shape the Koftas
Grease your palms with oil and roll the mince into smooth, crack-free balls about the size of a walnut. Set them on a plate and refrigerate for 20 minutes to firm up.
- 3
Seal the Turnips
Heat mustard oil in a heavy pot until it smokes, then cool slightly. Fry the turnip quarters on medium heat until they develop golden edges, then remove and set aside.
- 4
Sauté the base
In the same oil, add cardamoms followed by the onion paste. Sauté for 8-10 minutes on medium heat until the moisture evaporates and the paste turns light brown.
- 5
Bloom the spices
Add red chili powder, turmeric, and coriander powder with a splash of water. Cook for 2 minutes until the oil begins to separate from the masala.
- 6
Cook the yogurt
Reduce heat and whisk in the yogurt. Stir continuously for 5 minutes to create a smooth, velvety gravy base.
- 7
Gently add Koftas
Carefully place the raw koftas into the simmering gravy in a single layer. Do not use a spoon to stir; instead, hold the handles of the pot and gently swirl it to coat the meat.
- 8
Add Turnips
Once the koftas have firmed up (about 10 minutes), add the fried turnips into the gaps between the meat balls.
- 9
Long Simmer
Add 2 cups of warm water, cover with a tight lid, and seal the edges with a simple flour dough (Atta) for a 'Dum' effect. Cook on the lowest possible flame for 2 hours.
- 10
Final check
Break the seal and check the turnips; they should be dark and melt-in-the-mouth soft. The gravy should be thick and reddish-brown.
Notes & variations
- Turnips are essential; do not substitute with potatoes as the flavor profile will change completely.
- Ensure the mutton mince has about 20% fat for the softest koftas.
- Mustard oil is traditional for the pungent depth it provides to winter stews.
- This dish tastes significantly better the next day after the flavors have matured.
Serve with
Warm Sheermal or Khamiri Roti to soak up the rich gravy.
Cook's note
Never stir koftas with a spoon in the first 10 minutes; they are fragile and will break.