Sharkara Payasam
Traditional jaggery-based rice pudding with coconut milk.
About this dish
Also known as Neypayasam or Kadumthayari, this is the 'King of Desserts' in Kerala temples and Sadya feasts. Unlike the milky kheer of the North, this is a dark, intense pudding made with unrefined jaggery and coconut milk. It is characterized by its deep mahogany color and the distinct aroma of roasted coconut bits and cardamom.
Ingredients
The Grains & Jaggery
- 1 cup Unakkalari (Raw red rice) or Broken Matta rice
- 500g Dark Jaggery (Sharkara)
- 1.5 cups Water (to melt jaggery)
Coconut Milk (Three Stages)
- 4 cups Thin coconut milk (3rd extract)
- 2 cups Medium coconut milk (2nd extract)
- 1 cup Thick coconut milk (1st extract)
The Flavorings
- 1 tsp Cardamom powder
- 1/2 tsp Dry ginger powder (Chukku)
- 1/4 tsp Cumin powder
- 2 tbsp Ghee
- 1/4 cup Coconut bits (thenga kothu)
- 2 tbsp Cashews and Raisins
Method
- 1
Prepare the Jaggery Syrup
Melt the jaggery in 1.5 cups of water over medium heat until completely dissolved. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve to remove impurities and grit. Set the clean syrup aside to cool slightly before use.
- 2
Cook the Rice
Wash the rice thoroughly and cook it with the thin (3rd extract) coconut milk in a heavy-bottomed vessel (Uruli) or pressure cooker. Cook until the rice is very soft and can be mashed easily between two fingers. The rice must be fully cooked before adding jaggery, or it will never soften.
- 3
Infuse with Jaggery
Add the strained jaggery syrup to the cooked rice. Stir well and cook on medium-high heat for 10-15 minutes, allowing the rice to absorb the sweetness. The mixture should thicken and the color will deepen to a rich brown.
- 4
The Second Milk Addition
Pour in the medium (2nd extract) coconut milk. Continue to stir and simmer for another 10 minutes. The payasam should start looking glossy and the liquid should reduce by about a third.
- 5
Spice it Up
Stir in the dry ginger powder, cardamom powder, and cumin powder. These spices are essential for digestion and to balance the heavy sweetness of the jaggery and coconut milk. The aroma at this stage should be intoxicating.
- 6
The Thick Milk Finish
Lower the heat to the absolute minimum and pour in the thick (1st extract) coconut milk. Stir gently for just 1-2 minutes until heated through. Do not let the payasam boil after this stage, as the thick milk will split and lose its creamy texture.
- 7
The Ghee Tempering
Heat ghee in a small pan and fry the coconut bits until they are dark golden brown and crunchy. Then add cashews and raisins, frying until the raisins plump up and cashews turn golden. This adds the signature 'crunch' to the pudding.
- 8
Final Combine
Pour the hot ghee and fried garnishes over the payasam. Give it one final, gentle stir and cover the pot immediately to trap the aromas. Let it sit for at least 20 minutes; it will thicken significantly as it cools.
Notes & variations
- Use the darkest jaggery possible (black jaggery) for the authentic deep color.
- If you don't have red rice, use any short-grain rice, but red rice is traditional for its nutty flavor.
- Dry ginger powder is crucial; it prevents the 'bloating' often associated with heavy desserts.
- Leftover payasam can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, but reheat gently without boiling.
Serve with
Serve warm or at room temperature, ideally with a small ripe banana (Palayamkodan) mashed into it.
Cook's note
Adding a pinch of salt along with the jaggery syrup enhances the sweetness and depth of the chocolatey flavors.