Tirunelveli Puli Itta Keerai
Tangy mashed greens with tamarind and lentils from the deep south.
About this dish
Known locally as Puli Itta Keerai, this dish is a staple in the Tirunelveli and Thoothukudi districts. It is a rustic, tangy mash made primarily with 'Siru Keerai' (Tropical Amaranth) or 'Pulicha Keerai' (Gongura). Unlike the creamy mashes of the north, this is characterized by a sharp tamarind punch and a coarse texture, traditionally mashed using a wooden 'Mathu'.
Ingredients
The Greens and Lentils
- 500g Fresh Spinach or Amaranth (Siru Keerai), cleaned and chopped
- 50g (1/4 cup) Toor Dal (Split Pigeon Peas)
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
- 1 small lemon-sized ball of Tamarind, soaked in 1/2 cup water
- 4-5 Green chilies, slit
The Tempering (Tadka)
- 2 tbsp Gingelly oil (Sesame oil)
- 1 tsp Mustard seeds
- 1 tsp Urad dal
- 2 Dried red chilies, broken
- 1/4 tsp Asafoetida (Hing)
- 10-12 Curry leaves
- 6 Shallots, sliced thinly
Method
- 1
Cooking the lentils
Pressure cook the toor dal with 1.5 cups of water and turmeric for 4 whistles until completely soft. Mash the dal into a smooth paste using a whisk or heavy spoon and set aside. The dal acts as a thickening agent for the tangy greens.
- 2
Wilting the greens
In a wide clay pot or pan, add the cleaned greens, slit green chilies, and 1/2 cup of water. Cover and cook on medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the leaves have completely wilted and changed to a duller green. Do not drain the water; it contains all the nutrients.
- 3
Tamarind infusion
Extract the thick juice from the soaked tamarind and pour it into the cooked greens. Add salt and simmer for 5 minutes until the raw smell of the tamarind disappears and the greens absorb the sourness.
- 4
Mashing technique
Add the mashed toor dal to the greens. Using a traditional wooden churner (Mathu) or a heavy potato masher, crush the mixture directly in the pot. It should not be a smooth puree like a soup; it should be a coarse, chunky mash where the fibers of the greens are still visible.
- 5
Tempering the aromatics
Heat gingelly oil in a small ladle. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then add urad dal, dried chilies, and asafoetida. Add the sliced shallots and curry leaves, frying until the shallots turn a deep golden brown. This adds a smoky, sweet layer to the tangy dish.
- 6
Final Simmer
Pour the tempering over the mashed greens and stir well. Let it simmer for just 1-2 minutes on low heat to allow the flavors to meld. The final consistency should be like a thick slurry that can be mixed easily with rice.
Notes & variations
- Gingelly (Sesame) oil is essential for the authentic Tirunelveli flavor profile.
- If using Gongura (Sorrel leaves), reduce the amount of tamarind by half as the leaves are naturally very sour.
- A clay pot (Man Satti) is preferred for cooking this, as it retains heat and enhances the earthy taste.
- This dish tastes even better the next day after the flavors have fully matured.
Serve with
Serve hot with steamed rice and a side of roasted papad (Appalam) or potato fry.
Cook's note
Always mash the greens by hand; using a blender will make the texture slimy and ruin the rustic mouthfeel.