Nolen Gurer Payesh
Rice pudding sweetened with date palm jaggery.
About this dish
Nolen Gurer Payesh is the crown jewel of Bengali winter desserts. It is made using new harvest Gobindobhog rice and 'Nolen Gur'—the liquid date palm jaggery available only during the cold months. The distinction lies in the smoky, caramel-like aroma of the jaggery combined with the floral scent of the short-grain rice.
Ingredients
The Base
- 1.5 liters full-fat cow's milk
- 1/2 cup (100 g) Gobindobhog rice (or any aromatic short-grain rice)
- 1 tbsp ghee (clarified butter)
The Sweetener
- 200-250 g Nolen Gur (Liquid Date Palm Jaggery) or Patali Gur (Solid)
- 1/4 cup sugar (optional, to balance the color)
Aromatics and Garnish
- 2 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
- 1 bay leaf
- 10-12 cashew nuts, split
- 1 tbsp raisins
Method
- 1
Rice Preparation
Wash the Gobindobhog rice thoroughly and spread it on a plate to air dry for 10 minutes. Once dry, coat the rice with 1 tablespoon of ghee. This prevents the grains from sticking together and adds a deep nutty aroma to the Payesh.
- 2
Reducing the Milk
In a heavy-bottomed deep pan, bring the 1.5 liters of milk to a boil. Reduce the heat to low-medium and simmer, stirring frequently to prevent the bottom from scorching. You want to reduce the milk by about one-third of its original volume before adding rice.
- 3
Adding Aromatics
Drop in the bay leaf and the crushed cardamom pods into the simmering milk. The bay leaf provides a subtle herbal note that complements the earthy jaggery later. Constant stirring is key to developing a creamy 'Rabri' like texture.
- 4
Cooking the Rice
Add the ghee-coated rice to the reduced milk. Cook on low heat, stirring every 2 minutes. The rice should be cooked until it is soft and mashable between two fingers but still retains its distinct shape. This usually takes 20-25 minutes.
- 5
Testing Rice Doneness
Check the rice grains; they should look translucent and swollen. If the milk thickens too much before the rice is done, add a splash of warm milk. Never add the jaggery until the rice is 100% cooked, or the rice will remain hard.
- 6
Jaggery Preparation
If using solid Patali Gur, grate it or chop it into tiny pieces. If the jaggery quality is uncertain, melt it with 2 tablespoons of water in a separate pan and strain it to remove any impurities or grit before adding to the milk.
- 7
Incorporating the Gur
Turn off the heat entirely. This is the most crucial step to prevent the milk from curdling due to the acidity in the jaggery. Gradually stir in the Nolen Gur until the Payesh turns a beautiful pale pink or light tan color.
- 8
Final Simmer
Once the jaggery is fully incorporated and the mixture is smooth, turn the heat back on to the lowest setting. Simmer for just 2-3 minutes to marry the flavors. Add the cashews and raisins during these final minutes so they soften slightly.
- 9
Cooling and Setting
Remove from heat and let the Payesh sit for at least 30 minutes. It will thicken significantly as it cools. The flavors of the Nolen Gur deepen and become more pronounced after a few hours of resting.
Notes & variations
- Never add jaggery to boiling milk; the milk will almost certainly split.
- Gobindobhog rice is essential for the authentic aroma; Basmati is a poor substitute.
- Adjust the amount of jaggery based on its intensity; Nolen gur varies in sweetness.
- Store in the refrigerator but serve at room temperature for the best flavor profile.
Serve with
Best enjoyed on its own at the end of a traditional Bengali meal, or with warm Luchis.
Cook's note
A tiny pinch of salt added with the jaggery enhances the caramel notes of the Nolen Gur significantly.