Ghugni
Spiced yellow pea curry, a popular street food snack.
About this dish
Ghugni is the quintessential street food of Kolkata, sold at every street corner and railway station. Made from dried yellow peas (Matar), it is a versatile dish that serves as a breakfast with Luchi, an evening snack, or a side dish. What makes it distinctive is the 'Bhaja Moshla' (roasted spice mix) sprinkled on top and the tangy addition of tamarind water or lime juice right before serving.
Ingredients
The Peas
- 250g Dried yellow peas (Matar Dal), soaked overnight
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
- 1 tsp Salt
- 750ml Water for boiling
The Base
- 2 tbsp Mustard oil
- 1 Large onion, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp Ginger-Garlic paste
- 1 medium Tomato, chopped
- 1/2 cup Coconut bits (small thin slices), fried till golden
- 1 tsp Cumin powder
- 1 tsp Coriander powder
- 1/2 tsp Red chili powder
The Finishing Touch
- 1 tsp Bhaja Moshla (Roasted Cumin and Dry Red Chili powder)
- 1 tbsp Tamarind pulp or Lime juice
- Fresh coriander, chopped
- 1 Green chili, finely chopped
- Fine sev for garnish
Method
- 1
Soak and Boil
Soak the yellow peas for at least 8 hours or overnight. Drain and pressure cook with water, salt, and turmeric for 3-4 whistles. The peas should be soft enough to mash between fingers but must retain their round shape; they should not turn into a mushy paste.
- 2
Fry the Coconut
Heat mustard oil in a kadai and fry the tiny coconut bits until they are golden brown and crunchy. Remove and set aside. These 'narkel kochi' provide a delightful textural contrast to the soft peas.
- 3
Sauté Aromatics
In the same oil, add a pinch of cumin seeds. Once they sizzle, add the chopped onions and sauté on medium heat for 5-7 minutes until they turn translucent and start browning at the edges. Add the ginger-garlic paste and fry until the raw smell evaporates.
- 4
Spice Roasting
Add the chopped tomatoes, cumin powder, coriander powder, and red chili powder. Cook on medium heat, splashing a little water if needed, until the tomatoes soften and the oil begins to separate from the spice paste (masala bhuna).
- 5
Combine Peas and Masala
Add the boiled peas along with their cooking liquor into the kadai. Stir well to coat the peas with the fried masala. If the mixture looks too dry, add half a cup of warm water; Ghugni should have a thick, gravy-like consistency.
- 6
Simmer for Flavor
Add the fried coconut bits back into the pot. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes. This allows the peas to absorb the flavors of the spices. Mash a few peas with your spatula to thicken the gravy naturally.
- 7
Adjust Seasoning
Taste and add more salt if needed. The peas tend to absorb salt, so a final check is necessary. The consistency should be thick enough to sit on a spoon but loose enough to be scooped up with bread.
- 8
Add Tang and Heat
Turn off the heat. Stir in the tamarind pulp or lime juice. The acidity is crucial to cut through the starchiness of the peas. Add the fresh green chilies now for a sharp, fresh heat rather than a cooked-in spice.
- 9
The Garnish Ritual
Sprinkle the Bhaja Moshla generously over the top. Garnish with fresh coriander, raw chopped onions, and a handful of sev. Serving it immediately while hot ensures the garnishes stay crunchy against the warm peas.
Notes & variations
- Bhaja Moshla is made by dry-roasting whole cumin seeds and dry red chilies, then grinding them to a coarse powder.
- You can add small cubes of fried potatoes to the Ghugni for a heartier version.
- For a non-veg twist, add sautéed minced mutton (Keema Ghugni).
- If you forgot to soak the peas, soak them in boiling water for 2 hours with a pinch of baking soda.
Serve with
Freshly fried Luchi or Pav (bread rolls).
Cook's note
Adding the tamarind pulp only at the very end ensures the peas don't toughen up during the simmering process.