Ilish Macher Matha diye Pui Saag
Malabar spinach cooked with fried Hilsa fish head and seasonal vegetables.
About this dish
A classic 'Ghonto' (mishmash) from West Bengal and Bangladesh, this dish exemplifies the Bengali philosophy of 'nose-to-tail' eating. The prized head of the Hilsa fish (Ilish) is used to infuse humble Malabar spinach and seasonal vegetables with its potent, oily aroma. It is typically served as a mid-course during a traditional lunch.
Ingredients
Main Components
- 1 large Ilish (Hilsa) fish head, cleaned and halved
- 500g Pui Saag (Malabar spinach), leaves and tender stems chopped
- 200g Pumpkin (Kumro), cut into 2-inch cubes
- 1 large Potato, peeled and cubed
- 1 medium Eggplant (Begun), cubed
Spices and Aromatics
- 4 tbsp Mustard oil (essential for authentic flavor)
- 1 tsp Panch Phoron (Bengali five-spice mix)
- 2-3 Dried red chilies
- 1 tbsp Ginger paste
- 1 tsp Turmeric powder
- 1 tsp Cumin powder
- 3-4 Green chilies, slit
- 1 tsp Sugar
- Salt to taste
Method
- 1
Season the Fish Head
Rub the cleaned fish head halves with 1/2 teaspoon each of turmeric and salt. Let it marinate for 15 minutes to allow the salt to penetrate the thick bone structure, which helps in releasing flavor during frying.
- 2
Fry the Fish Head
Heat mustard oil in a heavy-bottomed wok (kadai) until it reaches smoking point. Carefully slide in the fish heads and fry on medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes per side until they are deep golden brown and very crispy. Remove and set aside.
- 3
Tempering the Oil
In the same oil (which now carries the fish essence), add the panch phoron and dried red chilies. Wait for the spices to splutter and release their characteristic licorice-like aroma, which takes about 30 seconds.
- 4
Sauté the Hard Vegetables
Add the cubed potatoes and pumpkin to the wok. Sauté on medium heat for 5-6 minutes until the edges start to brown slightly. These vegetables take longer to cook than the greens, so they need this head start.
- 5
Add Aromatics and Eggplant
Stir in the ginger paste, turmeric, cumin powder, and the cubed eggplant. Sauté for another 3 minutes, splashing a little water if the spices begin to stick to the bottom of the pan.
- 6
Incorporate the Greens
Add the chopped Pui Saag stems first, followed by the leaves. It will look like a lot of volume, but the greens will wilt significantly. Toss well to coat the leaves in the spiced oil.
- 7
Breaking the Fish Head
Return the fried fish heads to the wok. Use the edge of your spatula to break the heads into smaller chunks. This releases the internal fats and juices (the 'moshlish') into the vegetable mixture, which is the soul of this dish.
- 8
Simmering to Perfection
Add salt, sugar, and slit green chilies. Cover the wok and cook on low heat for 12-15 minutes. The vegetables should release their own juices; do not add extra water unless it looks dangerously dry. The final texture should be moist but not runny.
- 9
Final Mash
Once the vegetables are soft, use the spatula to slightly mash a few pieces of pumpkin and potato. This thickens the juices and binds the greens and fish pieces into a cohesive 'Ghonto' texture.
- 10
Resting Period
Turn off the heat and let the dish sit covered for 5 minutes. This allows the pungent mustard oil and fish aroma to settle and permeate every leaf of the spinach before serving.
Notes & variations
- If Malabar spinach isn't available, you can use regular spinach, but add a few marrow bones or radish to mimic the texture.
- Be careful of small bones from the broken fish head while eating; this is a slow-eating dish.
- Sugar is mandatory in this recipe to balance the bitterness of the greens and the intensity of the fish oil.
- Always use mustard oil; refined oils will fail to carry the heavy flavors of the Ilish head.
Serve with
Serve exclusively with piping hot steamed Basmati or Gobindobhog rice.
Cook's note
Fry the fish head until it is shatter-crisp; this ensures the bones become brittle and easier to manage in the final mix.